Guide · 5 years in the profession · co-founder of Ulikhanyan Travel

“Dilijan is proof that paradise on Earth exists.”

Journey

Daniel grew up in the forests and mountains around Dilijan. At some point he wanted to share that beauty with others — to show guests the city, its nature, and its history. Today he’s a guide and co-founder of Ulikhanyan Travel, which runs active outdoor trips across the Tavush region — mostly jeep tours and hiking routes.

The Voice of the City

There’s a legend about how the city got its name: long ago, a hunter lived here with his dog, Dilijan. One day, out hunting, the dog ran deep into the forest and disappeared — the hunter searched for her for several days. She found her own way home, exhausted but alive, guided back by the forests, clear streams, and familiar trails. People still say: “The forests of Dilijan never let go of those who once belonged to them.”

“What’s the weather like?” is the question Daniel gets asked most. “Unpredictable,” he says — sun and rain can hit the same day, and the temperature can shift completely just a couple of kilometers down the gorge.

Daniel’s Picks

If you have an hour: the “Drunken Forest” trail — a short walk with a view over Dilijan and the surrounding mountains. Daniel and his brother built a bench and a small footbridge there — the spot is especially close to their hearts, since they made it better, so guests would have a place to stop and rest.

Hidden gem: the Old Rotunda, just a few meters from the Amphitheater — one of the few places where you can still feel the atmosphere of old Dilijan

Tip for first-timers: Take care of nature — with your whole heart. It’s our greatest treasure, and it’s on us to protect it for future generations.

Dilijan in 10 Years

“I want Dilijan to always stay lively, warm, and genuine. To welcome guests from all over the world without losing its nature, its atmosphere, or its hospitality.”

Oleg Umnov moved to Armenia from Kirov with his wife and daughter. Here he makes and restores furniture. He spent three years living with his family in Yerevan before relocating to Dilijan. We talked to Oleg about how his pace of life has changed, why the neighbors feel like family, and what he thinks the town still needs.

There was never any question of where to move

We lived in Yerevan for three years and often drove out to Dilijan — slowly falling in love with the town. That’s how the idea crept in: why not get a place here. At some point, renting both an apartment and a workshop in Yerevan became too much. So we decided to change cities. We found the house through one of the local chats.

I sent my wife one photo of the balcony — she wrote back ‘we’re taking it’

The house is over 60 years old, and no one had lived in it for the last 30 of those. Even so, it was in decent shape and had a lot of potential. What scared us was that it had no power, water, or gas at all.

We started the renovation with electricity — the easiest part. We put in a new boiler, ran new pipes and radiators, and brought in water from the nearest connection point. While the work was going on, we lived in a guesthouse. Gas only showed up a month later, in October.

I started with the kitchen — had to put up a whole new wall there. Then drywall, paint, a new window, and I built the kitchen cabinets myself, out of birch plywood. It turned out really nice.

The house was full of old furniture — some of it I fixed up myself

There was a beautiful old table: the base was solid wood, and I restored it, then made a new top out of an old plank. It turned into a big, handsome table.

I love old things in general, and furniture I’m working on tends to follow me from workshop to workshop. We added some new pieces too — a coffee table, some Soviet-era armchairs. It all came together very cozy.

Our garden is big, full of fruit trees

But it was almost completely covered in blackberry bushes — we’ve cleared about half of it so far. In front of the house I laid down grass, put in a small pool for our daughter, made a little vegetable patch with tomatoes and cucumbers — and, of course, flowers.

Getting to work now takes me 15 seconds

We looked for a house with both living space and workspace — downstairs we have a basement, and that’s my workshop. So getting to work I just have to walk downstairs.

So in Dilijan, we suddenly had time

In Yerevan I was in a constant rush just to cover the basics. Here the financial pressure is lower, and we’ve noticeably slowed down. An evening walk to the store became a little ritual. Neighbors were surprised at first: “What happened to your car, why are you walking?”

We also picked up a mini-tradition: regular trips to the vegetable market in Ijevan. It’s not just about the prices — an ordinary grocery run turns into a scenic little trip.

Life got tastier and cheaper — except for utilities and cafés

We started eating a lot more fresh vegetables and fruit. Twice a week, Molokan sellers come to our street — we buy milk, butter, and their famous sauerkraut from them. But for familiar brands from Yerevan, we sometimes have to drive to Vanadzor, where there’s a “Yerevan City” store.

We didn’t expect the town to be this strong on kids’ activities

Our daughter goes to a good kindergarten — cheaper than in Yerevan, with a wider program: languages, yoga, brain gym, a speech therapist.

Neighbors told us: “Welcome to the family”

Talking to people is my fuel. In three years in Yerevan I made a lot of friends, both Russian and local. It’s the same in Dilijan, only the town is smaller and the community is tighter-knit. A week after we moved in, the neighbors set up a huge table in the yard, and one of them made a toast: “Welcome to the family.” That’s when I realized I’d become a local.

In Dilijan I found calm and peace of mind

And more time with my family. And, of course, neighbors you don’t just say hi to — you drop by for coffee, for lunch, celebrate holidays together.

The first thing I show friends is our house

Guests usually stay for a night or two. To really get to know the town, you need to slow down: start with coffee or a glass of wine on the balcony with a view of the mountains, then go for a walk.

For first-time visitors, I recommend the architectural walking tour of the town, run from the local center near the park entrance. It shows you what the town was meant to be — and what never got built.

Dilijan is missing a single design code

There are already pockets of beautifully preserved architecture. If the whole town looked like that — tidy little houses, no loud signage — it would be pure magic.

Most absurd purchase after the move?
Mustard seeds

A word picked up from locals?
Tsavt Tanem

Power spot
The wine bar “Kliver”

Thing to bring from the old life
The opera and ballet theater

Sound that replaced city noise
Birdsong and the neighbor’s rooster crowing

Dilijan as a person
Would be a psychologist

Three words about the town
Close-knit, quiet, dear

Dilijan from Above: 3 Scenic Viewpoints Worth the Climb

Dilijan has one special quality: the higher you climb, the better you understand the town. From above, it reveals a completely different side of itself—cozy neighborhoods gradually disappear into the dense forests of the national park, while mountain slopes embrace the valley from every direction.

If you want to experience Dilijan in its entirety, leave the town center behind, take a short hike, and head to one of these panoramic viewpoints.

1. The Drunken Forest — Dilijan’s Most Atmospheric Viewpoint

Ask any local where to find the best views close to the town center, and chances are they’ll point you toward the Drunken Forest.

The trail gets its unusual name from the pine trees growing at striking angles instead of standing upright. The explanation is entirely natural: years ago, landslides shifted the ground beneath the trees. As they continued to grow, they gradually bent toward the sunlight, creating the forest’s distinctive appearance.

But visitors come here for more than just the unusual trees.

From the viewpoint, you’ll enjoy one of the finest panoramas of Dilijan. The town stretches below, surrounded by dense forests, with the green slopes of Dilijan National Park rising beyond. It’s especially beautiful in the early morning, when mist lingers over the valley, and in the evening, when the warm light transforms the landscape.

Good to Know

• Difficulty: 2/10
• Distance: Approximately 1 km
• Տևողություն․ About 1 hour
• Suitable for children: Yes
• Guide required: No
• Best time to visit: Morning or sunset
• What to bring: Comfortable walking shoes, water, and a camera

How to Get There

The trail begins within Dilijan itself, making it easy to reach on foot from the town center. The path is clearly visible and suitable even for first-time hikers.

2. Viewpoint at the Central Bank of Armenia Educational and Research Center

As you enter Dilijan, it’s hard to miss the striking contemporary building with its glass facades. This is the Educational and Research Center of the Central Bank of Armenia, one of the symbols of modern Dilijan.

Nearby is a viewpoint offering sweeping views over the town and the surrounding mountains. It’s an ideal place to appreciate the contrast between contemporary architecture, traditional neighborhoods, and the forests that define Dilijan’s landscape.

After enjoying the scenery, consider visiting the Armenian Dram Museum located inside the Center. Its collection tells the story of Armenia’s national currency while exploring the country’s rich economic and cultural history through coins and banknotes.

Good to Know

• Difficulty: 1/10
• Visit duration: 15–30 minutes
• Suitable for children: Yes
• Guide required: No
• Best time to visit: Daytime or sunset
• What to bring: A camera or smartphone

How to Get There

The viewpoint is easily accessible by car or taxi. It can also be reached on foot from the town center in approximately 30–40 minutes. Advance booking is required.

3. UWC Dilijan Viewpoint

One of Dilijan’s most impressive viewpoints overlooks the campus of UWC Dilijan, located on a hillside above the town.

The campus has become one of Dilijan’s modern architectural landmarks. Its bright buildings with expansive glass facades seem to emerge from the surrounding forest, creating a remarkable harmony between contemporary design and nature.

From the viewpoint, you’ll enjoy panoramic views of both the campus and the forested mountains beyond. It’s one of the best photography spots in Dilijan, especially in the evening when the soft sunlight illuminates the buildings.

Good to Know

• Difficulty: 1/10
• Visit duration: 20–30 minutes
• Suitable for children: Yes
• Guide required: No
• Best time to visit: About an hour before sunset
• What to bring: A camera and a light jacket, as it can be cooler on the hillside

How to Get There

The viewpoint is easiest to reach by car or taxi. If you enjoy walking uphill, you can also hike there from town.

Good to Know

Before setting out, check the weather forecast—clear days offer the best visibility, while the forests are especially beautiful after rainfall. If you’re planning to visit all three viewpoints, allow about half a day for the route and start either in the morning or later in the afternoon, when the light is ideal for photography.

Locations

• Հարբած անտառ — Fantastic view on Dilijan
• Central Bank of Armenia Educational and Research Center — Central Bank of Armenia’s Educational Center
• UWC Dilijan Viewpoint — The View Point

Dilijan is most often associated with lush forests, charming old streets, and ancient monasteries. But if you look a little closer, you’ll discover another fascinating layer of the town’s identity—its Soviet architectural heritage.

During the second half of the 20th century, Dilijan developed into a renowned spa town, a cultural center, and a retreat for artists and intellectuals. Many buildings and monuments from that era have survived to this day. Some continue to serve their original purpose, others have been carefully reimagined, while many have become defining elements of the town’s landscape.

If you’d like to experience a different side of Dilijan, start with these places.

1. “50 Years of Soviet Armenia” Monument

One of Dilijan’s most recognizable landmarks welcomes visitors as they enter the town.

The monument was erected in 1970 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Soviet rule in Armenia. Its distinctive five-pointed star design has made it one of Dilijan’s most iconic architectural landmarks.

Today, the monument is appreciated not only as a relic of its era but also as one of the town’s defining visual symbols. It offers beautiful views over Dilijan and the surrounding mountains, making it a popular first stop for many visitors.

2. House of Composers

Perhaps the best-known Soviet-era building in Dilijan.

The House of Composers opened in 1963 and quickly became one of the Soviet Union’s leading cultural retreats. It welcomed some of the greatest names in music and the arts, including Dmitri Shostakovich, Aram Khachaturian, Arno Babajanian, Rodion Shchedrin, Maya Plisetskaya, Mstislav Rostropovich, and many others.

The complex was designed to provide composers with peace and privacy: the original cottages were spaced apart and surrounded by landscaped gardens. It was here that Dmitri Shostakovich worked on his Ninth String Quartet.

Today, the House of Composers remains one of Dilijan’s cultural symbols, recalling the time when the town attracted creative minds from across the Soviet Union. Concerts and festivals are still occasionally held here, and if your visit coincides with one of these events, it’s one of the best ways to experience a place that continues to live through music.

3. The Modernist Town Center

After Dilijan was granted the status of a republican spa town in 1958, it underwent a period of significant urban development.

The town center gained a Palace of Culture, a library, a cinema, a communications building, and other public structures designed in the style of Soviet modernism. Together, they form a cohesive architectural ensemble that can still be appreciated while walking through the town today.

Pay attention to the buildings’ clean geometric forms and the way the architects carefully integrated them into the mountainous landscape.

4. Khandjian Villa

Visitors interested in Soviet architecture and urban history should also seek out one of Dilijan’s lesser-known landmarks—the cylindrical villa of Armenian political leader Agasi Khandjian.

Built in 1936, the villa sits on the hills above the town center. Agasi Khandjian served as the First Secretary of the Communist Party of Armenia for six years and chose Dilijan, long regarded as one of Armenia’s premier resort destinations, as the location of his summer residence.

Designed in the spirit of early 20th-century Armenian modernism, the villa stood out for its rare cylindrical form—an unusual architectural choice for its time.

The building is closely connected to Khandjian’s tragic fate. He died in 1936 under circumstances that remain the subject of historical debate. Despite this, the villa has survived and remains an important architectural landmark.

Although the building is now partially abandoned, its circular layout and striking silhouette continue to attract architecture enthusiasts and travelers interested in uncovering Dilijan’s hidden historical layers.

5. Cabinet — Giving a Soviet-Era Building a New Life

Dilijan’s Soviet heritage is not only about preserving history—it’s also about finding new ways to bring historic buildings back into everyday life.

Cabinet is one of Green Rock’s projects dedicated to preserving and revitalizing historic architecture. The red-brick Soviet-era building once housed a branch of Yerevan State University and, according to local residents, also hosted government meetings. Today, it has been carefully restored while preserving its original character and materials, and now operates as a contemporary café and bar.

Cabinet has become a vibrant gathering place for both locals and visitors. The project demonstrates how thoughtful restoration can preserve architectural heritage while creating a welcoming space where dining, culture, and community come together.

A Different Side of Dilijan

Soviet architecture is just one of the many layers that make Dilijan unique. It exists alongside 19th-century wooden houses, medieval monasteries, forest trails, and contemporary public spaces, creating a town shaped by many different eras.

As you explore Dilijan, don’t be afraid to wander away from the familiar tourist routes. That’s where you’ll discover how history continues to coexist with the present—and how the buildings of the past are finding a new future.

Guide · 3 years in the profession · previously an art teacher and researcher

“I love Dilijan because it’s like a movie! You never know what’s waiting around the next bend — a sunset over the mountains, wild horses in the reserve, or a Tesla Cybertruck.”

Journey

For over ten years, Evgeny taught art, working with students all over the world — some of them still keep in touch. He’s also been a researcher: he studied ornamental patterns from cultures around the world and earned a PhD. He first came to Dilijan 14 years ago — it’s his wife’s hometown, and every summer the two of them would escape the city for the cool forests of Tavush. Friends who knew how much he loved Armenia kept asking him to help plan their trips — that’s when Evgeny realized he’d found the thing he wanted to do every day.

The Voice of the City

On his tours, Evgeny weaves together historical facts, legends, and stories: old man Kyaram, the origin of the city’s name, the ancient khachkar in Haghartsin. But his favorite moment on the tour isn’t a fact — it’s a smell: he lets guests sniff a Soviet-era cologne he found among old ruins. It almost always stirs up nostalgia — people remember their childhood and start sharing stories that seemingly have nothing to do with Dilijan at all.

Evgeny’s Picks

If you have an hour: a walk through the old quarter with its balconies, a small museum, and mountain herbal tea at the Tufenkian restaurant

Hidden gem: the valley around Fioletovo, 15 minutes from the city — a Molokan village where descendants of 19th-century Russian settlers still drink tea from a samovar and cut grass with scythes, keeping the same way of life alive for five generations

Tip for first-timers: take a guide — the city stretches across three gorges and splits into several disconnected centers, so it’s easy to get lost and waste time without one

Dilijan in 10 Years

In 10 years, Dilijan will be a comfortable, beautiful city for locals and visitors alike — if urban planners, investors, local government, and local business owners work together to make it happen.

Dilijan takes its coffee seriously. But choosing where to go rarely comes down to the cup alone. Some spots pair it with wine at sunset. Others, fresh bread — or good company to catch you up on what’s happening in town. All six pour good coffee. What happens next is different every time.

Lumen Coffee

https://www.instagram.com/lumen.coffee/

Lumen is a cult Yerevan coffee brand that’s since opened in Los Angeles. In Dilijan, it runs as an espresso bar inside Kchuch restaurant: a bar built from old door panels, tiled floor, neon sign overhead. Besides espresso, they brew filter coffee on serious equipment and sell bags of beans to take home.

The Spot

https://www.instagram.com/the.spot.dilijan/

The Spot runs a full kitchen — shakshuka to steak — and takes its coffee just as seriously. It’s not the first time they’ve brought in beans from Blackwood, a roastery in Novosibirsk. It’s also where expats and locals actually meet — the place to go if you want to know what’s happening in Dilijan.

Conservatory

https://www.instagram.com/conservatory.dilijan/

Conservatory took over an old house and rebuilt it from the inside: tall ceilings, plenty of light, vintage chandeliers next to metal tables. The coffee menu runs from espresso to cold brew, all specialty. By day, it’s coffee and breakfast; by night, the same room turns into a wine balcony.

Mosh

https://www.instagram.com/mosh.dilijan/

In the morning, Mosh is a quiet café for getting work done over a filter coffee or flat white. By evening, the same space turns into a bar — bright cocktails, and conversations that don’t rush to end.

Mame

https://www.instagram.com/bakerymame/

Mame brews its coffee on beans from Caffeine, Armenia’s first specialty roastery. But people come for more than the coffee — sourdough bread, pastries made from family recipes, and the owner’s signature lemon pie.

Rolls

https://meetdilijan.com/restaurants/rolls/

https://www.instagram.com/rolls__rolls/

Rolls runs a full coffee menu — from filter to espresso tonic — plus signature dessert rolls and bright drinks like blue coconut matcha. The menu also covers smash burgers, shawarma, and an “anthill” roll for dessert, with a mountain view from the balcony.